A Glass Tasting -- Stems versus Tumblers

I knew glassware made a difference in wine taste and experience, but I'd never done a true glass tasting before last weekend. After shopping for glassware with friends Sunday, we taste tested a big cabernet with red wine tumblers (Lenox red) against higher end traditional bowl stems. I was very surprised by the difference. The wine was completely different in the tumbler.

Without doing a formal side-by-side tasting, we made some guesses about why ranging from the shape of glass (the tumbler was a more angular bowl while the stem was very rounded) or the size of the bowl (stem was bigger producing more nose). However, the biggest difference was where the wine hit the tongue first. I couldn't tell whether it was the thickness of the glass or the style, but the wine from the tumbler hit the tongue a full 1/2 centimeter forward -- and even right on the tip. The wine from the stem hit the tongue further back which seemed to attribute for almost all of the taste difference in the wine. We didn't have the Riedel "O" cabernet tumbler for further comparison which would have had a bowl that approximated our stem sample more closely. (The Lenox Red is a slightly thicker crystal and shaped more like the Riedel Pinot Noir style.)

Our tasting wasn't very structured by any means, but certainly makes me want to do a more formal survey. I may have to enlist some help for this one but I feel another tasting evening coming on.

Judge Rules in Favor of Indiana Wineries

A judge has ruled in favor of nine wineries allowing them to ship wine during the holidays. The wine makers filed suit to gain an injunction the state's policy against in-state wine shipments. As readers will recall, at issue was a rule put in place by the state state Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms Commission disallowing in-state shipments after the US Supreme Court ruled on a Michigan case allowing out-of-state shipments. Out of state wine shipments (both to and from out of state) are still illegal in Indiana. Nine wineries participated in the suit. The judge has granted the injunction through March of next year. More from the Ft. Wayne Gazette.

Tidbits Tidbits Tidbits

News on the Future Post-Patio? Not news to many folks, but with The Patio closing, the space is in good keeping. IndyStar reports David and Maggie Lee, owners of Broad Ripple's Naked Tchopstix, have taken a 15-year lease on the space. No solid plans yet, they say, but it won't re-emerge as a concert venue. No name yet.

Make your plans for Holiday Tea! Oakley's will offer a full Holiday high tea complete with scones and finger sandwiches (no word on the clotted cream) each day at 3:00 p.m. from Tuesday, December 20 until Friday, December 23. Call for reservations -- $25 inclusive per person.

Another chance for Fleming's: On the recommendation from trusted sommelier Lisa Cunningham, and another good review in Indianapolis Monthly, I'll give Fleming's another chance. Lisa pointed out the build-a-flight options as well as couple of tasty treats we missed first time around. We'll report back.

Marsh Explores Sale: Not the sale of the former Atlas property on College Ave like everyone was hoping, but the possible sale of the entire company. Marsh has brought in a NY firm to explore strategic alternatives one of which could involve putting the entire chain on the market. Indystar.com has the story.

Foodies Holiday Wish List -- Part II

As part of our ongoing public service (and while waiting with bated breath to actually try Jonathan Wright's cooking to see if it's as transcendental as all of his New Orleans fans say), we present part II of the holiday gift list. As the gifty holidays approach, we're doing our part here to help gain you points with the food and wine fans in your with a little help from fellow WeLL foodie Nancy White and Lebanon columnist and blogger Scott Hutcheson:

1. Vacuvin and a good opener: Nancy says Vacuvin is perfect "for those of us who like wine nightly, but only drink a glass...Seals in the wine for tomorrow!" For less than $12, you can pick up the pump (which pumps air out of the bottle) and two rubber vacuum seal stoppers, all in one package. I'd also add the Screwpull corkscrew or a good lever corkscrew to that list. Skip cheesy novelty corkscrews, and please, please, please, skip those decorative wine "tops". I have *never* understood what those were for. Over the weekend, we hung a few on the tree, so maybe that's it.

2. Microplane Zester/grater: Scott makes an excellent recommendation! I have the Microplane zester and I'm eager to get larger size (hint! hint!) (Hey, I mean of the *grater*, you people, I swear!) These easy-to-use planes are sleek with an excellent handle and a super smooth "micro" grating surface. Saves knuckles and fingers from the worst damage with those old box or flat graters. Microplanes come from small to big sizes and sell for less than $15 each. I found mine at Williams Sonoma.

3. Sauces from Fran's Chocolates: Nancy says with sauces from this amazing looking chocolate maker, you can't go wrong! Wow -- I'm sold! From Nancy: "The Chocolate Cabernet sauce is pricy at 12 bucks, but give it with a tiny spoon tied around the jar and you'll have a new best friend. Skip the ice cream - it dulls the flavor with cold." What a great -- and delicious -- recommendation!

4. Gift Certificate from Penzey's Spices: Gift cards are perfect for letting your own personal chef splurge to their heart's content in a great venue for the splurging. Penzey's (in Indianapolis, on 86th in Clearwater) is a wonderland of spices, blends, rubs, marinades, and all other kinds of goodies including salts, peppers, and pre-made mixes to help you make everything from chili to Chinese food. Great idea, Scott! (I'm a fan of the Bicentennial mix myself.)

5. Napkins or linen towels: A few really nice napkins or French linen towels are perfect for lining bread baskets, using on special occasions, and even covering tables. Nancy says "Wrap around a fresh loaf of bread, tie with ribbon and freshen someone's bread basket." I've seen the best quality for the money at Williams Sonoma or Pier 1. (I'll go one step further and say I've never been disappointed when anyone gave me those great waffle weave kitchen towels from W/S in fun colors either. They wear like crazy and look great.)

6. Schott's Food and Drink Miscellany: Culinary fans will appreciate this entry in the popular line of books from trivia expert Ben Schott. From little known facts to hand references (and asking for the check in 21 languages), your favorite food nut will love this stocking stuffer.

I have a few more to add from Scott for next week's installment -- plus more than a few ideas from a shopping trip over the weekend. Keep the suggestions coming!

More on the Jonathan Wright Plight

Lorin Gaudin, sr. food and wine editor for New Orleans magazine, has posted a very nice rebuttal defending Chef Wright in response to the post for Nov. 20 -- Jonathan Wright Who? To see the full response, click on "comments". It's clear he has fans -- what good chef doesn't -- and fans who know and understand good food. I know New Orleans is sad to lose him.

Let me say, thanks for the post, and thanks also for helping me discover what may be one of my new favorite blogs, Emeril's Notes from the Kitchen -- despite the whole Emeril connection. (A leetle joke -- I know he's a terrific and funny guy. These yankees just don't appreciate his heavy use of bourbon and cream.)

I realize Chef Wright isn't to blame for the article in the IBJ, but I wanted to post this here to follow up on a couple of specific points. The IBJ article generated a lot of talk among Indianapolis chefs. I was worried my response was too heated, but having talked to several of them in the past few days, I came away feeling it wasn't heated enough. There is a general feeling that responsible parties -- IBJ, the mayor's office, the Conrad PR people, whoever -- have talked Wright up seemingly ignorant of that fact that several of our top chefs have careers at least as stellar as Wright's. These chefs are here in Indy earning their keep, doing top-notch work, running successful high end restaurants, and have just as many mentions in Bon Appetit and/or Gourmet (what the hell, throw Food and Wine in there, too.) Wright may not be responsible for what John Mariani gushes about him, but, let's be honest. He should have some control over how his new employer's PR zealots whip up enthusiasm touting a restaurant they think will put Indy on the map!

Wright is the one who has to work -- and be successful -- in this town, and Indianapolis is nothing, if not a small town. If he's as nice a guy as Gaudin says, I'm guessing he was just as appalled by the article as everyone else. But Chef Wright is responsible for knowing how his name and reputation are marketed. He's responsible for the company he keeps. Think he doesn't have control? Think again. PR and marketing are all things "renowned chefs" have to worry about -- right along with how clean the plates are going across the pass. (You probably wouldn't be surprised to know how many hits I've had from Hilton-owned IP addresses in the past four days -- including at least 10 today alone.)

I'm sure Chef Wright does great work and I look forward to meeting him -- and more eagerly to eating in his establishment. New Orleans is a great food city and I know that so many magazines and papers wouldn't have touted him as the best in the city lightly. I'm sure he's a great -- and good looking -- guy (Greg Hardesty, look out!) Would I love it if Le Soleil becomes the next Le Maison, Fleur de Lis, or Daniel? You bet! In the meantime, we'll wait and see -- and hope the Conrad PR folks will do the same. I suspect they'll want to revisit John Mariani's reference in their source list.

Stovetop Stuffing Creator Dies

Awww, and just before Thanksgiving, we have this sad news here in Indiana. Ruth Siems, a Purdue trained home economist invented the instant stuffing in 1971 while at General Foods. She had a heart attack on Nov. 13 in Newburgh, Ind. From the AP article:

Siems' brother, David, said she found that precise bread crumb size was the secret in developing an instant stuffing. Kraft Foods, which now owns the Stove Top brand, sells about 60 million boxes of the five-minute stuffing each year around Thanksgiving.

And on this Thanksgiving Eve...

As we gather around the virtual dining table this Thanksgiving, with football on in the background, alternating boy-girl-boy-girl, we circle up, join hands and say "thanks" for the bounty of this year. From fine wine in Napa to barbeque in Texas, from pork tenderloin in Indiana to Cafe Boulud in New York, from vineyards to sidewalk cafes to the kitchen table at Oakley's, we give thanks and once again toast "to good friends and good food".

On to the three latest and best:

Cheesecake Factory: Always crowded? Yes. Enormous portions? Yes. Baja Chicken Tacos? Fried Macaroni and Cheese Balls? Oh, yes. That is all.

Unnamed Mexican Place in Beech Grove: Some wonderful clients brought in lunch last week and I'm awful for not having written it down, but food was a Mexican place in Beech Grove. Fantastic! The chicken was marinated in pineapple juice, soy sauce, and ginger. The flautas were perfect and the Tex Mex potatoes were weird, but wonderful. Some of the best Mexican food I've had in a long time.

Thanksgiving in the Oakley's kitchen: A small project Chef Oakley offered to help me with led to not only some amazing smoked salmon, but a terrific chance to help out in the kitchen at Oakley's. They were very busy last Friday and Tuesday preparing orders for Thanksgiving take-out orders. I was happy to get to help chop, slice, quarter, stir, scrape, and puree all kinds of things for stuffing, gravy, and an enormous amount of sweet potatoes. It was lots of fun and I had a great time helping out.

Jonathan Wright Who?

Indianapolis always has such a bad case of "famous-itis". If reporters think someone is a celebrity, they fawn over them, write them up, and in general, overshadow everyone locally who might be doing the same thing. This morning, I woke up to a large headline in the IBJ, the essence of which was "Renowned Chef Comes to Indy!" What?! When I think "renowned chef" I think of, well, a celebrity, someone who's really made a name for themselves. I think Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Gordon Ramsey, Gary Danko, or Mario Batali. Hell, even Rocco DiSpirito falls into the renowned category these days. But who the heck is Jonathan Wright?

Wright, who has been hired by the Conrad to helm their new 213-seat restaurant, Le Soleil, and lounge, Vitesse, comes lately from The Windsor Hotel in New Orleans. His most notable posting seems to have been fairly early in his career at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in Great Britain, then voted one of Bon Appetit's favorites. A bit of research reveals he had a successful restaurant in the UK, some sexy postings (Raffles in Singapore), and success in New Orleans. The New Orleans papers all seemed to love him, and he was a well-known chef there but he's not what I'd really call nationally famous. He's leaving New Orleans for obvious reasons.

None of this make sense until I run across John Mariani as the heavily-quoted critic in the IBJ piece. Ahhhh, here's the culprit. Wright appears to be a protege of everyone's favorite critic-for-hire, John Mariani. Mariani, national gadfly and foodie-about-town is an old school critic who's probably best known as food correspondent for Esquire. And according to Mariani, Indy is in the big-leagues now with Jonathan Wright. (The assistant deputy mayor even calls Wright a "national celebrity.") However, Mariani's reputation has suffered in recent years as he has increasingly been viewed by many of us in the food world as a hired gun. He appears to be willing to review, write, or endorse almost anything for a price. Michael Ruhlman outed him in his book The Soul of a Chef when he wrote how Mariani only traveled to Cleveland to review the then-hot Lola because local business leaders paid his way. (They pitched in to get Mariani to town and had him review several restaurants.) In recent years, even the critic's fans have begun to realize there's no rhyme or reason to his restaurant picks in Esquire. More recently, Mariani has become tied up in some controversy as chefs and reporters in Chicago shed light on his and other critics' practice of demanding comped meals and travel. (More at Accidental Hedonist.) Chef Wright appears to have had a nice career so far with some choice postings, but his biggest supporter seems to be Mariani which makes me suspicious.

What irritates me most about the IBJ article is that they relied on one food-world source (and a suspect one at that) and according to Mariani's opinion have determined that Wright will put Indy on the map! Wow! Why didn't we think of this sooner? Mariani says he's coming to visit Indianapolis now! Well, of course he will when the folks from the Conrad pay his way when he comes to review their new hotel and restaurant. Mariani also claims that since he will review Wright nationally (I'm sure in glowing terms), Bon Appetit and Gourmet will as well. Hey, newsflash, John, some of our local chefs have already been written up in Bon Appetit and Gourmet! We don't need to pay you for that!

For the folks at the Conrad, hiring Wright was a pretty savvy piece of marketing -- he comes with his own built-in national mouthpiece. One can only hope that they'll be generous and schedule Mariani to dine with a few other Indianapolis chefs who are doing work comparable to Wright (although, he might miss a few meals if they don't comp everything for him.) Otherwise, look for a redux of the recent New York Times piece with reviews of St. Elmo's and complaints about all the chain restaurants.

About Le Soleil and Wright, much remains to be seen. Will the dressed up meat-and-potatoes menu for Le Soleil work? Will raising the wine temperature by 2 degrees provide a significant benefit? Will Wright integrate himself into the community here the way many downtown chefs have? It all remains to be seen. It seems like he has a lot on his shoulders along with opening a new restaurant and trying to deliver on the promise of celebrity status already bestowed by the IBJ. But he won't get any free passes from us just because John Mariani says he's good. He'll have to impress us all for that.

The Fracas over Fois Gras

Yesterday, someone mentioned to me the column in Wednesday's Indy Star on fois gras. I had missed it. Columnist Jolene Ketzenberger (is she local? I hate it when papers don't make that clear) does a quick hit on the issue using the Chicago controversy as cover. Her position is that she can't even stand to see the facts on her own, so she'll take Trotter's word for it that fois gras is horrible. She's not eating it. Great, honey, don't eat it. It's more for us!

While the debate on fois gras (I love how she has a little pronunciation guide in the column just in case you Indiana hicks thought is was "fwas gras") has been raging in California for a while, chef Charlie Trotter brought it to the Midwest in full force earlier this year. In a series of snarky quotes back and forth in newspaper articles, it's apparent that Trotter may just be using the fois gras issue to take punches at a couple of Chicagoland rivals. Either way, the whole conversation has become tired and old. Whether it's fois gras, factory raised chickens, or pork, it's still meat raised for food. Today's poultry and pigs are raised in conditions far worse -- and more disgusting -- than any I've seen on fois gras farms.

As far as fois gras goes? Eat it. Don't eat it. It's up to you. But make your own choices based on what you like and know -- and not what a couple of politically motivated, publicity seeking chefs in Chicago are manipulating you to think. It's food -- and we eat all kinds of food every day raised specifically for human consumption and manipulated to be juicier, sweeter, bigger, and more tender. Maybe it's time to embark on your own taste test of foods you aren't sure about. I'd recommend starting with the Chicken-Fried Fois Gras at the Chisholm Club in Ft. Worth, Texas. I know it sounds like a waste of good fois gras, but trust me, it's not.

The Foodie's Holiday Wish List

Hey, boys and girls, if you need to know what to get your favorite foodie (or local food blogger) for Christmas or Hanukkah, here are a few treats I think are pretty nifty. Consider it a public service for my readers. I'll do anything to help you score big with the food and wine geeks in your life:

1) A Magnetic Spice Rack -- I've seen these all over town from Target and Cost Plus to At Home in the City and Crate and Barrel. This month's Dine features one from Soho Spices. Prices range from $50-$225 for the stainless steel brushed-finish board and 12-20 magnetic steel containers. These are perfect for a cook who works with lots of colorful Indian and African spices or specialty ingredients -- and they look great in the kitchen! Make sure you choose an option with strong magnets and containers with a tight seal -- spices can loose their punch pretty easily if not stored in air tight containers.

2) A Wine Decanter -- If your special foodie likes good red wines (I do, I do!) consider a wine decanter. Target carries the bargain Riedel decanters and most good home stores like Pottery Barn, Crate and Barrel, and Williams Sonoma carry a version. If you really want to splurge, Kahn's carries the expensive, crystal Riedel, but it's not necessary. Look for one with a good area for helping your heaviest reds aerate. (Until it died an untimely death, I was quite happy with my inexpensive Pottery Barn decanter. It was very flat and I have the special wine decanter squidgy wire cleaner to clean it. The squidgy cleaners for decanters, wine glasses, and champagne flutes are available at Kahn's.)

3) Bouchon by Thomas Keller -- You can go wrong giving a regular cookbook, but you can never go wrong with one of Thomas Keller's luscious, readable volumes of food porn. Bouchon, his follow up to The French Laundry Cookbook, features Keller's trademark decadent dishes none of which you'd ever make at home but all of which you drool and dream over. This book is sheer sex on a page.

4) Everyday Pan or Paella Pan -- Giving pots and pans may be the foodie equivalent of giving someone a new dishwasher for their birthday, but if it's the right pan, your favorite cook will be surprisingly happy. Most people who cook have the basics. The treat is when you give them a pan they might not have but they find themselves using all the time. Enter the Everyday pan -- a shallow flat pan with an ovenproof lid that can go from stovetop to oven easily -- and its slightly larger, rounder cousin, the paella pan. Both are the kinds of pans most cooks find themselves wondering how they lived without before. Choose good quality and give it in love -- it's a metaphor for "where have you been all my life!"

5) Cheese Knives -- If your foodie likes to entertain, then he or she will know the easiest and spiffiest thing you can do for a party is a cheese board. If they know this much, then they'll love you when you give them a set of cheese knives. Pottery Barn has these sets with both wooden and pewter handles. Each set has 5 knives specially designed for cutting soft, semi-soft, hard or aged cheeses. Whether they're serving triple-cream brie or 10-year aged gouda, you'll be the star with this gift.

6) Riedel "O" Stemless Glasses -- I proudly admit it! I'm a convert! I love these handy little wine tumblers. They're the right shape, easy to hold, and perfect to pop into the dishwasher. At $18-25 a pair (depending on which types/shapes you choose), they are the best glass for the money out there right now. Available at most wine shops and even lurking in the wine section at Steinmart. They come in seven major shapes/sizes. I recommend starting with a pair of red and a pair of white.

What other goodies help foodies score at the holidays? Post your suggestions and we'll put them together. I'm all about sharing the love!

It's Mutual Bloggy Love

As a counterpoint to Chris Harken's article in Dine about how many people had changed opinions of Indy after eating Steven Oakley's food, I picked up last week's NYTimes section on "36-hours" in Indianapolis. Tired, tired, same old, same old, bang drum, bang head against wall, St. Elmo's, Slippery Noodle. And then, I noticed 11 a.m. Air Raid once again has tackled the job on a write up I just can't face. (It happens, there's a reason you haven't seen anything here yet about the New York Michelin ratings.) So, go read their take on it as Jim says pretty much what I would have said -- and is probably nicer, I might add. Plus, they gave me a double-shout out today. They like us! They really like us!

Indiana Wineries File Lawsuit

Happy Beaujolais Day! Until you pick up your Beaujolais Nouveau today, here's a little in-state Indiana wine news to tide you over.

Wine drinkers will recall the Michigan law overturned in May by a Supreme Court ruling regarding out-of-state wine shipments. The Supremes opened up the way for states to allow out-of-state shipments of wine to individual customers. (It's still against the law in Indiana until some gung ho wine enthusiasts tackle getting it changed or the legislature does it. But, you know, what with trying to pass intelligent design or repeal daylight savings time, who in the statehouse has the time?) So, back to our Indiana story. Apparently, in the week after the ruling, the Indiana Alcohol and Tobacco Commission sent a letter to all Indiana wineries telling them that *in-state* customer shipments were illegal also. This was news to the wineries in state who've apparently been happily shipping wine to customers for 30 years.

Nine Indiana wineries filed suit in Madison county on Tuesday to ask for an injunction against this seemingly strange ban against in-state shipments. Their attorney says there's no law on the books banning in-state shipments of wine. He also says the ban has hurt many small wineries who've relied heavily on the shipments to customers and want to save their holiday seasons. Hearing is on Monday. AP Wire story from Indychannel.com

Jon, Mark, and Robbo's Easy Drinking Whisky

New at MacNivan's, the latest in Scotch whiskys for beginners. I love the concept from the unpretentious labling to easy-to-understand flavors. So it's a slick business concept, so what? I have a lot of respect for slick business concepts. The product? Jon, Mark and Robbo's Easy Drinking Whisky Personally, my favorite is the aptly named The Rich Spicy One, but The Smooth Sweeter One is a second favorite. I aspire to really enjoy The Smokey Peaty One, but let's face it, Scotch can be an acquired taste. These aren't single malts but blended whiskys and, frankly, to my taste a lot more interesting than your average Dewar's or Johnnie Walker Black. These guys aren't newbies and they get a lot of credit for bringing an accessible, quality product to market! Cheers!

What I Learned in Dine Magazine

Tapas, Oh Yumm! I'd heard a rumor, but this month's issue of Dine confirms it -- Oh Yumm Bistro now features tapas on Tuesdays. The chef and his wife are big fans of Cafe Ba Ba Reeba! in Chicago and have added the small plates format to their Tuesday menus. Bonus -- red and white wine sangria!

It's Good to Be a Critic: It must be good to be Reid Duffy since the meal he had a Fleming's sounds completely different from ours. We never saw (on a menu or otherwise) the goat cheese spread starters and we certainly weren't as impressed with the service. His highly buffed wine glasses must have made up for the two spotty ones we had to return. (I've honestly never been served glasses that smudged in a high end restaurant -- and certainly not before a $13 glass of cab was poured into them.) Glad he had a good meal -- he can go back since we won't be.

What Are You Doing New Year's Eve? Maybe this should go in the "What I want for Christmas" section. Right now, top on my list would be the New Year's Eve dinner at Elements with Chef Greg Hardesty. The menu looks like it will include lobster, caviar and all kinds of other delicious treats to toast to the end of another year.

Steven Oakley Making Indy Look Good: Confirming what most of his fans already knew, Harken dubs Oakley "Mr. Incredible". On his last trip to Cakebread, Steve apparently made a lot of people start thinking twice about Indianapolis food which is good for all of our top chefs. Sounds like everyone else is just as impressed with his consistency, professionalism, and creativity. We couldn't ask for a better evangelist for Indianapolis food.

Beaujolais Nouveau 2005 est arrive!

Don't forget Thursday, Nov. 17 is Beaujolais Nouveau Day! Kahn's will have this short-term wine for tasting and purchase, but not before Nov. 17! Looks like they'll carry at least two -- the Joseph Drouhin and the Georges Duboeuf. Both make fine holiday party wines especially at just over $100 a case. (Certainly better than the scary quantities of the three-dollar Charles Shaw I see wheeled out of Trader Joe's on any given Saturday.) If you're looking for an inexpensive but really festive and drinkable wine, try one of these little favorites -- branch out a little bit! And if you love wine, then you already appreciate the joy this first wine of the fall season brings with it. (Remember, the Nouveau doesn't keep so buy it now and drink it through Easter or so next year.)

No Whole Foods? Address Complaints to NORA

Just when we thought we might get a Whole Foods, it's been snatched away. Last week the IBJ reported developer Paul Kite had a third proposal ready to go the Nora Northside Community Council for development of the northeast corner of 86th and Keystone. However, more complete information has arrived and they're now reporting the council voted unanimously on Nov. 3 to oppose the third version of the plan -- which called for a 50,000-square-foot grocery store. Kite was hoping to lure a Whole Foods market to the site. Development is going to continue marching on whether a small group of community folks along 86th street like it or not. It's too bad the rest of us have to suffer. I suppose they'll be happy to let the business go to Carmel or Westfield. Meanwhile, those of us who live downtown would just love any kind of grocery store that could improve upon O'Malia's (or the scary Kroger on 16th.)

A Champagne Night of Nights!

Last evening, I was attended a wonderful champagne tasting hosted by a couple of friends who like to drink (and learn about) all things bubbly. It was a pleasant way for a group of friends to get together, catch up, and try some bottles one normally wouldn't all have at one time. Rules were that singles should bring a bottle $35 and over and couples should bring a bottle worth $50 or more. Our hostess did a great job of coordinating what folks were bringing to ensure a wide range for trial. Everyone brought a dish to share as well.

We started the evening with some fine California sparklings including the best samplings from Mumm Napa, Domaine Chandon, and Gloria Ferrar as well as a fine vintage S. Anderson Rose the hosts brought back from their last trip to Sonoma. Early on we also sampled the Greg Norman Australian Chardonnay sparkler and a bubbly from Maui. As we moved into the true Champagnes, we started with nothing less that the venerable "red stripe", the Mumm Cordon Rouge, then moved into a Veuve Clicquot, Tattinger, and a Moet demi-sec (the Nectar). We also tried one of the new shiraz black sparklers that's getting so much press right now (this one from Shingleback).

Lots of discussion of salt versus sweet -- and what did I learn? That there's a miniature of La Grand Dame herself, the widow Clicquot right on top of the cage of a bottle of VC. Who knew?!

Many thanks to our hosts! A delightful evening with great food, friends, and wine.

Caribbean to Replace Rob and Jay's Chippy

We all already miss Rob and Jay's Chippy at 51st and College -- the only place in town where you could get the real-deal greasy fish and chips including those fries that looked suspiciously like they came from fresh, real potatoes.

The Star's Susan Guyett reports a Caribbean themed restaurant will take its place -- Da Blue Lagoon. The owner previously operated Caribbean Spice at the City Market downtown. They'll serve Jamaican specialties -- patties, jerk chicken, ox-tail soup and more. Sounds promising until they tout they'll have tropical decor, carry Bob Marley merchandise and play island music non-stop. Look for this island paradise to open in a few weeks.

Tidbits for Thursday

Crate and Barrel Opening: Last night, attended the Crate and Barrel opening. Wow -- a fantastic store which I think is at least as big as the Chicago flagship. Spectacular products, really great food, and a very sharp and fashionable crowd. All complimented by corporate execs, newly trained enthusiastic employees and free valet parking. White wine only (natch) and gifts of red leather photo albums all just for coming to say "Welcome to Indianapolis!"

Dinner at Fleming's: I was only kind of neutral about this new place and then found out that Fleming's is the upscale restaurant chain from the Outback Steakhouse people. I was about that underwhelmed by the food. Granted, they do have a great wine by-the-glass list, but it's not enough to overcome the too-small bar area, unoriginal menu, overdressed salads, mediocre appetizers (at least the ones we had) and just-average service. For the same money, I will keep going to Sullivan's as my favorite northside steakhouse (and Ruth's Chris for downtown.) One good thing -- free valet parking, but Sully's has that, too.

Atlas/Marsh -- the Saga Continues: If anyone's been following the papers, there are letters daily about Marsh and the whole Atlas debacle. The latest today? The fence has been removed from the parking lot which means, I suppose, that a) they have decided to at least let neighboring businesses have access to the parking, or b) they wanted to get rid of the "promises, promises" banner.

Don't Tease Us Like This!

Are we getting a Whole Foods? Maybe, if developer Paul Kite has anything to say about it. The IBJ reports he has resubmitted yet another round of plans to Nora residents for a condo/retail development on the last undeveloped corner of 86th and Keystone. He is dangling the possibility of a Whole Foods -- and is in talks with the company, but no lease has been signed. It would be the state's first Whole Foods market. (I was lobbying for us to get it downtown first, but I'll take one where we can get it, I suppose.) Nora residents have rejected his proposals twice before.

Holy Moly: Holy Cow Cake

Happy Guy Fawkes Day! Each year, a friend of mine has people over for the traditional bonfire, beer, food, and a good old fashion effigy burning. Fireworks are involved. This year, we celebrated last night -- an evening early -- and he asked me to bring a dessert. People who know me know I'm an avid cook, but not much of a baker (or dessert maker for that matter.) So, I'll admit it -- I love The Cake Mix Doctor. My old hard cover version is batter stained and the jacket torn. Anne Byrn gives an unoriginal baker like me lots of easy cake ideas. It always looks like I worked much harder on it than I really did. I also like that the book carries a wide variety of plain and fancy cakes -- including the one I picked to take last night. Holy Moly. She calls it "Holy Cow Cake" but I called it pure, unadulterated evil in a pan -- or, as it was dubbed at our table last night: Damien Cake. How can it be bad when it's oh-so-good!

Cake:
1 pkg (18.25 oz) plain devil's food cake mix
1 1/3 cups water
1/2 cup vegatable oil
3 large eggs

Topping:
1 jar (8 oz) caramel topping
1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk
4 Butterfinger candy bars (2.1 oz each, crushed)
1 container (12 oz) frozen whipped topping
1 pkg (8 oz) cream cheese at room temp

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and spray a 13 x 9 inch baking pan. Set aside. In a bowl, mix cake mix, water, oil and eggs and mix. Pour well-blended batter into the pan, put the pan in the oven and bake 35-38 minutes (you know the drill, it's done when it pulls away from the side, springs back, toothpick comes out clean.) When done, put the pan on a wire rack and immediately poke holes in the cake with a straw or chopstick or handle of a wooden spoon.

Put the caramel and sweetened condensed milk in a small bowl and stir to combine. Spoon that mixture over the warm cake so it can seep down into the holes. Measure out half the crushed up candy bars and sprinkle the pieces over the cake.

Put the whipped topping and cream cheese in a bowl and mix with an electric mixer until smooth and combined. Spread the cream cheese icing over the top of the cake. Then sprinkle the remaining candy pieces over the top. Refrigerate for 20 minutes (or longer) before cutting.

Dinner by Design to Open in Fishers

I don't know if I buy that the Dinner by Design concept is the hottest new thing in suburban living. From what I understand or have read, a family (or, say a group of moms) gets together at the Dinner by Design kitchen, uses the pre-determined menus and ingredients already prepped, and makes about two weeks worth of "take and bake" meals. I understand this concept when it comes to mircobrewing and winemaking (there was a microbrewery like this in SF in the 90s that's now out of business). However, I'm just not sure how if it's going to have long term appeal for families. (Everyone will go once to try it out, of course.) With 100 franchise agreements signed across the country and one of the first opening in Fishers, it should be an interesting (if not expensive) experiment. Press release at Inside Indiana Business.

New Organic Concept Market in Broad Ripple

The Indy Star today is reporting that SuperValu (Cub Foods, Sav-a-Lot) will open the first of its lower price organic markets in Broad Ripple. The new Sunflower market will be located in the old Thrifty Threads (nee A&P) on the on Broad Ripple Ave across from McDonald's. SuperValu markets things price is a barrier for consumers wanting to get in on the organic bandwagon. It's due to open in early spring 2006. (Whether or not it's a good test of their or pricing concept, it sounds like there's enough other good stuff to feel welcome in Broad Ripple. The Marsh there now serves such a wide clientele, the quality of the stock and niceness of the store continue to decline. More from Susan Guyett:

The Sunflower Markets will feature lots of produce, meat, deli items, fresh baked goods, frozen foods, dairy products, cheese, seafood, beer, wine and more. They have an exclusive arrangement with French Meadow Bakery to operate a cafe/deli in the store to serve sandwiches, salads and soups.

Report from Wines Central

Damage reports are now coming in from the devastating warehouse fire in Vallejo earlier this month. Yesterday's New York Times reported some of the worst of it. Here's what we seem to know so far: The fire stared in an upstairs mezzanine, one of the few areas with wood in it (the building is a former Naval storage facility with 3-foot thick concrete walls); it was arson; and the area where it started was where the older, more valuable wines were kept. Preliminary estimates are that $100 million worth of wine was destroyed. While many larger wineries lost their libraries (valuable historical vintages used for tastings and comparisons), some smaller houses lost entire inventories. Some of the losses include:

* Tres Sabores, Rutherford: 2400 cases including most of their 2003 vintage
* Viader Vineyards, Deer Park: nearly all their inventory including a 2003 cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc blend
* Saintsbury, Carneros: inventory and their entire library, about 3000 cases
* Thackrey, Bolinas: 3500 cases lost (of 4000 total inventory)

The Napa Valley Vintners Association held an emergency meeting last week to give guidance to winemakers on what can be salvaged and how to recover. Chemical analysis can only determine if the seal has been broken or if the chemistry of the wine has changed. It can't tell winemakers how much heat the wine was exposed to or how it will continue to age. Look for more news on how winemakers will continue to assess damage and decide what, if anything, is salvageable from the warehouse. The ATF has to approve sale of any inventory involved in the fire. No arrests have been made although police are investigating the fire as a criminal matter.

Marsh Picks Up Trash at Atlas Site

For anyone following the Atlas issue, there've been some interesting letters to editor in the IBJ on the issue. Comments range from defenses of Marsh's decision to vows to never shop there again. It might be time to file in the "too little too late" department. From today's IBJ Daily:

Marsh cleans up Atlas site

After a string of bad publicity stemming from an IBJ article, Marsh Supermarkets Inc. sent a few people to pick up the trash around the old Atlas Supermarket at 54th Street and College Avenue yesterday. The company bought the building in 2004 but recently put on hold plans to put an Arthur's Fresh Market at the site. Neighbors complained that Marsh should at least get rid of the beer bottles, shopping carts, graffiti and piles of brush littering the property. The company listened. "It's cleaner now than it was before," said Joe Walters, co-owner of the Northside News Cafe, which fronts the location, "but it seems like they only pick up when somebody calls their attention to it." Marsh officials did not immediately return a call for comment.

Next Wine Dinner at Oakley's Bistro

Last night, Lisa Cunningham filled me in on the upcoming Signature Wine Dinner at Oakley's Bistro. Sounds like Steve is really going to outdo himself again with this one -- when she said Cakebread, my eyes glazed over and before my head exploded I heard "Zin" and "92". Oh, yes. Rumor also has it there will be a late harvest *cab* for dessert, Steve's favorite Pinot Noir, and, of course, Mumm to start. They still have spaces but not for long. Call the restaurant for reservations. (824-1231)

6:00 p.m. Reception
Sunday, Dec 4,
$95 per person all inclusive